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Slow Internet in St Helens? Causes, Fixes and When to Replace Your Router

9 min read

"My internet's slow" is one of the most common things I hear from customers in St Helens. Rainhill, Eccleston, Haydock, all over. The same problems come up again and again. And most of the time, it's not actually your broadband speed that's the issue. It's something in your house.

Usually it's one of the things below. I've put them roughly in the order I check them.

1. Your Router Is in the Wrong Place

This is the single biggest cause of slow Wi-Fi I see. The router gets plugged in wherever the phone socket or master socket happens to be, usually a hallway, a corner of the living room, or tucked behind the TV. Then people wonder why the signal is weak upstairs or in the back bedroom.

Wi-Fi signal drops with every wall, floor and large object it has to pass through. Older houses in St Helens and places like Billinge and Rainford tend to have thicker internal walls (often solid brick rather than plasterboard), which kills signal much faster than a modern build does.

Ideally your router should be:

Quick test: Stand next to your router and run a speed test on your phone (just search "speed test" in Google). Then go to the room where your internet feels slowest and run it again. If there's a big difference, the problem is Wi-Fi signal, not your broadband speed.
Next to router
95 Mbps
No walls
One wall away
40 Mbps
1 plasterboard wall
Two floors up
8 Mbps
2 floors + brick

2. Too Many Devices on One Band

Most modern routers broadcast on two frequencies: 2.4GHz and 5GHz. A lot of people don't know the difference and just connect everything to whichever network appears first.

2.4 GHz

  • Slower speeds (up to ~100 Mbps)
  • Better range through walls
  • More prone to interference
  • Only 3 non-overlapping channels
Best for: smart home, IoT, far rooms

5 GHz

  • Much faster (up to ~1 Gbps)
  • Shorter range, weaker through walls
  • Less interference from neighbours
  • Many more available channels
Best for: streaming, gaming, near router

If you've got 15 devices crammed onto 2.4GHz, they're all fighting over the same limited bandwidth. Smart plugs, cameras and speakers are happy on 2.4GHz. Laptops, consoles and streaming sticks near the router should be on 5GHz. Splitting them sensibly makes a noticeable difference.

Some routers show both networks separately (e.g. "BT-Hub-XXXX" and "BT-Hub-XXXX-5G"), while others combine them under one name and try to manage it automatically. If yours combines them and you're having speed issues, it can be worth separating them so you decide which device goes where.

3. Your Router Is Too Old

The router your provider sent you five years ago was a budget box when it was new. It sits on the shelf, ignored, until Netflix starts buffering and Teams calls drop. It doesn't get better with age.

Start with a simple check. Turn the router over and find the model number on the sticker. Search for it along with "release date". If it came out more than five years ago, it's probably holding you back, and the reason is the Wi-Fi standard it runs.

Wi-Fi standards in plain English

Every few years Wi-Fi gets a new version. Each one handles more devices at once and copes better in streets where everyone's Wi-Fi bleeds through the walls.

StandardAlso calledYearRough max speed
Wi-Fi 4802.11n2009~300 Mbps
Wi-Fi 5802.11ac2014~1.3 Gbps
Wi-Fi 6802.11ax2019~3 Gbps
Wi-Fi 6E802.11ax (6GHz)2021~3 Gbps, less congestion
Wi-Fi 7802.11be2024~5+ Gbps

Ignore the max speeds. Nobody gets them at home. What matters is that a Wi-Fi 6 router copes with 20 smart devices, four phones, three laptops and a games console without falling over, and a 2015-era Wi-Fi 5 router doesn't. If you've had the same ISP router for three years or more, there's a good chance it's Wi-Fi 5. Fine for a small flat. Not great for a busy family house.

Signs the router is the bottleneck

ISP router or your own?

For plenty of people the ISP router is fine, particularly if it's been swapped in the last couple of years. BT's Smart Hub 2 and Smart Hub Plus, Sky's Hub 4 and Max, and Virgin's Hub 5 are all decent enough. Your own kit makes sense if you've got a big or awkwardly laid-out house that needs mesh, you work from home and need it to just work, or you want proper parental controls (the ISP ones are usually limited).

Check before you buy anything. Virgin Media insists you keep their hub, though you can put your own router or mesh behind it. BT, Sky, TalkTalk and most others let you swap, although Sky makes it deliberately awkward.

As a rough guide: a small flat with one or two people needs a decent Wi-Fi 6 router. A typical two or three bedroom semi does well with a two-piece Wi-Fi 6 or 6E mesh such as TP-Link Deco or Amazon Eero. Bigger or odd-shaped houses want three mesh units. Wi-Fi 7 is worth a look if you work from home on gigabit full fibre, but it isn't essential yet.

I've set these up for customers across St Helens, Sutton and Thatto Heath and the difference is usually immediate, without touching the broadband package at all.

Before you spend anything: check your actual broadband speed (see section 5). There's no point buying a Wi-Fi 7 mesh if the line itself only delivers 40Mbps. In that case, sorting the broadband out will help far more than a new router.

4. Wi-Fi Dead Zones

Some houses just have spots where Wi-Fi doesn't reach. A thick chimney breast in the middle of the house, a loft conversion two floors above the router, an extension at the back: the signal simply can't get there reliably.

Mesh Wi-Fi is the best fix for larger or awkwardly shaped houses. Two or three units spread around the house make one network, and your phone moves between them without you noticing. TP-Link Deco, Google Nest Wifi and Ubiquiti all make good ones.

Powerline adapters are the other option. One plugs into a socket near the router, another into the room with poor signal, and the internet travels through your electrical wiring. Results depend on the wiring. Newer builds in Haydock and Newton-le-Willows tend to work well, older wiring can be hit and miss.

And if you can run an Ethernet cable, even along a skirting board or through a hole in the floor, do it. Nothing beats a cable for a gaming PC, smart TV or work-from-home desk.

What I'd avoid is the cheap plug-in "Wi-Fi booster" or extender. They halve the speed, create a second network your devices don't roam onto properly, and they're a sticking plaster over the real problem.

5. It's Actually Your Broadband Speed

Sometimes the Wi-Fi is fine and the problem genuinely is the broadband connection coming into your house. This is especially true in parts of St Helens where full fibre (FTTP) still isn't available and you're on a copper phone line.

The further your house is from the street cabinet, the slower your connection. That's just how copper broadband (ADSL and FTTC) works. Some areas of Clock Face and Bold are on longer copper runs, which means lower speeds regardless of which ISP you're with.

Check what you're actually getting vs what you're paying for:

  1. Plug a laptop or PC directly into the router with an Ethernet cable (this takes Wi-Fi out of the equation)
  2. Run a speed test at speedtest.net
  3. Compare the result to what your ISP promised when you signed up

If the wired speed is close to what you're paying for, the problem is your Wi-Fi, not your broadband. If it's well below, call your ISP or check whether full fibre has reached your address. CityFibre and Openreach have been rolling out FTTP across parts of St Helens, Rainhill and Eccleston, so check again even if it wasn't available last time you looked.

Check your address: Go to your ISP's website or try openreach.com/fibre-checker to see what's available at your postcode. If full fibre is available and you're still on a copper connection, upgrading will make a massive difference.

6. Channel Congestion

Wi-Fi routers broadcast on specific channels. Think of them like lanes on a motorway. In terraced streets and flats, your neighbours' routers are all broadcasting on the same channels and they interfere with each other. It's a common problem in the more densely built-up parts of St Helens town centre and Thatto Heath.

Most routers are set to "auto" channel selection, which should handle this, but some do a poor job and stick to crowded channels. You can log into your router and change it manually. On 2.4GHz, channels 1, 6 and 11 are the only ones that don't overlap, so pick whichever your neighbours use least. On 5GHz there are far more channels and congestion is rarely an issue.

Free apps like WiFi Analyzer (Android) show you which channels are busy on your street.

7. Background Devices Eating Your Bandwidth

Plenty of devices quietly use bandwidth without you realising. Windows updates downloading, phones backing up photos, a smart TV streaming in 4K in another room, a games console pulling down a 50GB update.

A single 4K stream uses about 25Mbps. On a 40Mbps connection, that's more than half your bandwidth gone on one device.

Some routers have a QoS (Quality of Service) setting that lets you prioritise certain devices or types of traffic. If yours supports it, putting your work laptop or gaming console first can help when the network is busy.

8. Your DNS Is Slow

DNS converts website names (like google.com) into IP addresses. Every time you visit a website, your device does a DNS lookup first. Most people use their ISP's DNS servers by default, and some ISPs have slow ones.

Switching is free and takes two minutes. Two good options:

You can change this on your router (so every device benefits) or on individual devices. On Windows, go to Settings → Network & Internet → Wi-Fi → your network → DNS server assignment → Edit and enter the addresses above.

It won't make downloads faster. Websites can feel snappier to open, though.

When to Call Your ISP

If you've been through everything above and a wired speed test still shows well below what you're paying for, the problem is on your ISP's side. Usually it's one of these:

Ring them and give them your wired speed test result straight away. It skips the "have you tried turning it off and on again" stage and gets you to an actual diagnosis faster.

And if you've tried all this and still can't pin it down, it's often a mix of two or three things at once: an old router, a bad spot for it, and a laptop that's struggling on its own. That's the kind of job I sort out as part of my computer repair work in St Helens, testing the line, the router and the devices so you know which one is actually at fault.

Wi-Fi router
Mark, Your Local Computer Guy
Mark

Mark has been fixing computers since the late '90s and went self-employed in 2008. Based in St Helens since 2013, he works evenings and weekends from his home in Laffak, doing friendly, affordable repairs for PCs, laptops, and Macs. See reviews on Google

Still struggling with slow internet?

If you're in St Helens, Rainhill, Eccleston, Haydock, Newton-le-Willows, or anywhere in the surrounding areas and you can't work out why your internet is slow, I can come and take a look. Router placement, Wi-Fi setup, mesh systems, or just working out whether it's the router, the line or the layout. Get in touch.

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"Excellent response and service, Thanks for sorting out our PC problems and getting all our other kit talking to each other, cheers Ian"

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